There isn’t one “right” order, but many DIYers find this sequence easier for a smooth finish:

1. Pre-fill gaps and fastener divots so tape doesn’t bridge air pockets.
2. Flat seams first (tapered and butt joints). Embed tape, scrape excess, then apply wider coats after drying.
3. Inside corners next. Use paper or flexible corner tape; coat one side, let it set, then the other to reduce ridges.
4. Outside corners with bead (if needed), then skim coats.

General tips:

• Work in thin coats to limit shrinkage and sanding.
• Step up knife sizes (e.g., 6", 10", 12") to feather edges.
• Allow full dry time between coats; lightly sand and prime before painting.

Choose a patch that overlaps the damaged area so it bonds to solid surface:

• Pinholes to small nail holes: Lightweight spackle and a putty knife are usually sufficient.
• Up to about 2 inches: A small, self-adhesive mesh patch or thicker repair paste can work.
• 2 to 6 inches: Self-adhesive aluminum mesh patches (commonly 4", 6", 8") help bridge the hole.
• 6 inches and larger: Consider a larger patch panel or a cut-in repair using a drywall repair sheet with backing support.

Before patching, square up loose edges, remove dust, apply compound through the mesh, and feather wide. Let it dry fully, sand smooth, and prime so the paint blends better with the surrounding wall.

Both can help, but they shine in different situations:

• Spackle (lightweight or all-purpose): Handy for small dents, nail/screw holes, and quick touch-ups. It dries relatively fast and sands easily, which can speed up repainting.
• Joint compound (premixed): Better for seams, larger patches, and multiple skim coats. It feathers smoothly over wider areas, which helps hide repairs.
• Setting-type compound: Useful when you want faster turnaround or deeper fills; it chemically sets and can resist cracking.
• Patching plaster: Often used for deeper repairs where a harder set is preferred.

Whichever you choose, apply thin coats, allow full dry time, sand lightly, and prime before painting for more uniform color and sheen.

For cracks that keep reopening, adding tape can help reinforce the area:

• Mesh tape: Self-adhesive and convenient for flat seams or straight cracks. It pairs well with setting-type compound to reduce shrinkage over wider areas.
• Paper tape: Often preferred for inside corners or where added tensile strength is desired.

Basic approach:

1. Widen the crack slightly and remove loose material and dust.
2. Apply tape over the crack, then embed with compound.
3. Feather additional thin coats, letting each coat dry fully before light sanding.

Wear basic protection when sanding and follow all product instructions. If a crack reflects movement in the wall or framing, a more involved fix may be appropriate.

Paint once the repair is completely dry, smooth, and primed. Dry time varies by product, coat thickness, temperature, and humidity. Some repair pastes include a color-change indicator that shifts when dry, which can be helpful, but always confirm by touch in multiple spots.

• Apply thin coats of compound to reduce drying time and shrinkage.
• Let each coat dry fully, then sand lightly to level edges.
• Prime the patched area (or the whole wall for the best blend) to minimize flashing and sheen differences.
• After primer dries, apply your finish paint.

Good ventilation and moderate room conditions can help drying, but avoid rushing; results may vary based on the repair and environment.