Compost soil is decomposed organic material that adds life back into garden beds and containers. It’s made from things like plant matter, aged manure, and worm castings, and it’s used to enrich existing soil rather than replace it.

• Why gardeners use it: It can improve soil texture, support beneficial microbes, and provide a gentle, slow-release nutrient boost.
• What you’ll see in our aisle: Plant-based composts, composted manure blends, earthworm castings, and garden soils that include compost (some blends may also include coir, bark, or biochar).
• How to use: Mix into native soil or top-dress around plants. Many gardeners start with a light layer and adjust over time. Needs can vary by plant type and local soil conditions.

They work differently, and many gardeners keep both on hand.

• Compost: An amendment made from decomposed organic matter. It’s typically mixed into garden beds to improve structure and organic content. It can also be blended into other media for a nutrient bump.
• Potting soil: A soilless or lightweight mix (often with ingredients like bark, coir, or perlite) designed for container drainage and root aeration. It’s usually the primary medium in pots and planters.
• When to use which: Use potting soil as the base for containers. Add a portion of compost to beds or blend a small amount into container mixes if desired. Exact ratios depend on plant needs and climate; start modestly and observe how plants respond.

Fruit seeds are generally okay to add, but some can survive a cool pile and sprout later. A few simple steps can help reduce that risk.

• Chop and mix: Cut fruit scraps so they break down faster, and mix them well with dry, carbon-rich materials like leaves or shredded paper.
• Use the hot zone: Place seed-heavy scraps toward the center of an active, well-aerated pile, turning periodically to encourage higher internal temperatures.
• Let it finish: Give your compost time to mature. Screening finished compost can help catch any stray pits or seeds before using it in beds or containers.
• If sprouts appear: Simply pull them during bed prep. Practices vary by bin style and climate, so adjust as you go.

Many home bins handle fruit and veggie trimmings well, but some materials can cause odors or attract pests. It may be helpful to keep these out of a typical backyard pile:

• Avoid: Meat, bones, fish, dairy, oily or heavily seasoned foods, and large amounts of baked goods.
• Be cautious with: Diseased plant material, persistent weeds with seeds, and glossy or coated paper products.
• Better additions: Produce peels and cores, coffee grounds and filters, tea (without synthetic bags), crushed eggshells, and plenty of dry browns like leaves or shredded paper.
• Tip: Keep a lid on your bin and mix fresh scraps into the center to help minimize pests and odors. Bin design and local conditions can influence what works best.

A quick way to estimate is to choose a depth and use your area. As a rough guide:

• Top-dressing garden beds: 1–2 inches is common before mixing into the top layer.
• Light lawn top-dress: About 1/4–1/2 inch can be used in many cases.
• Handy math: Cubic feet needed ≈ (Area in sq ft × desired depth in inches) ÷ 12.
• Example: For 120 sq ft at 1 inch, you’ll need about 10 cubic feet. Many bags are sold in 1, 1.5, or 2 cubic feet, so plan accordingly.
• Note: Soil type, plant needs, and local climate affect how much to apply. Start conservatively and adjust over time. You can shop bags online or in store.