You’ll see a few common types on this page, each made for different jobs:

• Major appliance extension cords (indoor): Often 14/3 SPT-3 with a grounded, flat plug. Designed for air conditioners, refrigerators, microwaves, and similar loads (typically up to 15A).
• Range cords: Heavy-duty 3‑wire or 4‑wire cords for electric ranges, usually rated 50A, 125/250V, with right‑angle plugs to sit close to the wall.
• Light‑duty countertop appliance cords: Slim HPN, usually polarized 2‑prong, for small kitchen appliances.
• General indoor extension cords: 16AWG options for lamps and office use; some include multiple outlets.
• Outdoor heavy‑duty cords: SJTW 12/3 or 16/3, water/weather‑resistant for yard tools and seasonal use.

Match the cord’s gauge, amperage, and indoor/outdoor rating to your task.

Appliance extension cords are built for higher, sustained loads and tighter spaces, while general cords are more for light household use.

• Heavier gauge: Appliance cords are often 14/3 or 12/3 with a grounding pin; many household cords are 16AWG.
• Shorter lengths: 3–9 ft helps limit voltage drop for items like an air conditioner or refrigerator.
• Low‑profile plugs: Flat or right‑angle plugs fit behind appliances.
• Listing and ratings: Look for UL/ETL and match amperage/wattage to the appliance.
• Purpose: Multi‑outlet or 2‑prong cords are convenient for lamps and decor but aren’t intended for major appliances.

Using a cord that aligns with the appliance’s draw and environment can help performance and safety.

Gauge (AWG) numbers run opposite of thickness—lower means thicker and typically supports more current with less voltage drop.

• 10AWG: Thicker. Helpful for higher‑draw equipment or longer runs where minimizing voltage drop matters.
• 12AWG: A versatile heavy‑duty pick for many 15A tools and tasks; often sufficient for moderate lengths.

To choose, consider: the appliance’s amperage (check the nameplate), the circuit capacity, and the cord length. For major appliance extension cord use indoors, many options are 14/3 rated up to 15A, while some applications may warrant 12/3. Avoid exceeding the cord’s rating, keep cords as short as practical, and when uncertain, selecting a thicker gauge can provide extra margin within the rated limits.

Safety comes first—stop using the appliance and unplug it. Next steps can vary:

• Detachable cords: Some appliances (like ranges) use removable cords. Replace with a cord that matches plug type, wire count, amperage/voltage rating, and listing per the appliance manual.
• Fixed/internal cords: If the cord is hard‑wired into the appliance, contacting the manufacturer or a qualified technician is advisable. Splicing or taping isn’t recommended.
• Fit and strain relief: Ensure the replacement fits the receptacle and includes proper strain relief to avoid future damage.

You can shop replacement cords at Walmart and choose pickup or delivery in many areas. If you’re unsure about compatibility or local code, a licensed pro can help.

Both power an electric range, but the wiring approach is different:

• 3‑wire cords: Two hot wires plus a neutral. Common in older installations where neutral and equipment ground were bonded at the appliance.
• 4‑wire cords: Two hot wires, a neutral, and a separate equipment ground. This separation is the modern standard in many areas.

Match the cord to your wall receptacle and the appliance’s installation instructions, and use the correct amp rating (many ranges call for 50A, 125/250V). Right‑angle plugs help the range sit close to the wall. Because local codes and setups vary, reviewing the manual and consulting a qualified electrician if needed can help ensure a proper connection.