Most powered home subwoofers connect with a single RCA subwoofer cable, which is a 75‑ohm coaxial line that carries the low‑frequency (LFE) signal.

• Powered subs: Run one RCA cable from your receiver’s “Sub Out/LFE” to the sub’s “LFE/Line In.” If your sub has left/right inputs, many accept the mono signal on either jack; some label a preferred input.
• Passive subs: These require an external amplifier and speaker wire, not an RCA cable.
• Long or in‑wall runs: Consider a well‑shielded, 75‑ohm coax cable that’s in‑wall rated where applicable.
• Tight spaces: Right‑angle RCA connectors can help behind furniture.

On Walmart.com, you can filter by length, connector style, and shielding to match your setup and room layout.

Subwoofers typically perform best with 75‑ohm coaxial RCA cables labeled for “subwoofer” or “digital coaxial,” since they’re designed to carry low‑frequency signals with added shielding.

• Short runs (under a room length): A well‑shielded RCA coax can work smoothly in most living rooms.
• Long runs: Look for dual‑shielded or braided‑shield cables to help reduce hum and interference.
• Connectors: Corrosion‑resistant (e.g., gold‑plated) RCA ends can help maintain a reliable connection over time.
• Single vs. stereo pairs: You typically need one RCA cable for the sub’s mono LFE input, not a Left/Right pair.

Routing the cable away from power cords and dimmers can also help minimize buzz in challenging rooms.

It depends on your subwoofer’s input and your installation needs.

• Powered sub (line‑level input): Use a 75‑ohm RCA subwoofer cable. For long or in‑wall runs, RG6‑type 75‑ohm coax with properly terminated RCA connectors can work well.
• Passive sub (speaker‑level): Use speaker wire from the amplifier. Common choices are 16–14 AWG for shorter distances and 12 AWG for longer runs or higher power.
• In‑wall routing: Choose in‑wall rated cable where required and follow local codes. Using quality terminations (not loose adapters) can help maintain signal integrity.

If you’re unsure which input your sub supports, a quick check of the manual or rear panel labels can clarify the right cable type for your setup.

Home and car subwoofers use different wiring because the systems are built differently.

• Home theater (powered subs): Typically use a single 75‑ohm RCA subwoofer cable from the AV receiver’s “Sub Out/LFE” to the sub’s line input. Choose the length and shielding that fit your room and routing.
• Car audio: The sub is usually powered by an external amplifier. You’ll use RCA interconnects for the audio signal from the head unit to the amp, plus a separate amp wiring kit (power, ground, and remote turn‑on). Speaker wire then connects the amplifier’s output to the subwoofer.

Select cable lengths that allow gentle bends and secure connections to reduce the chance of noise or intermittent signal.

A Y‑splitter (1 RCA to 2 RCA) can be helpful in some setups, but it’s not always necessary.

• Subs with an LFE jack: One cable to the LFE/Mono input is typically all you need.
• Subs with only L/R inputs: Some models sum both inputs internally and may have slightly higher sensitivity if both jacks are fed. A Y‑splitter can provide that, though results vary by model.
• When to try it: If your sub lacks a dedicated LFE jack or you’re seeking a bit more input sensitivity without changing settings dramatically.

Check your sub’s manual for input recommendations. If you hear hum, reroute cables away from power lines or try different grounding approaches before adding accessories.