This line includes automotive body fillers, glazing putties, fiberglass resin systems, and wood repair products designed to level, fill, and rebuild a variety of surfaces.

• Automotive: Two‑part body fillers help level dents, dings, and scratches on metal panels. Fine glazing putty helps fill small pinholes and sand scratches before priming.
• Fiberglass/Metal: Resin and fiberglass mat can reinforce rust‑through areas or repair cracks; some repair kits are sized for small holes.
• Wood: Wood fillers are paintable (and many are stainable) for furniture, doors, and trim; wood restorers can firm up soft, rotted spots before filling.
• Accessories: Spreaders, self‑adhesive patches, and tack cloths support application and prep.

Always follow the product label for surface prep, mixing, safety, and compatible topcoats.

You can paint over cured filler with the right prep. A careful process can improve finish quality.

1. Let it cure: Allow the filler to fully harden per label directions.
2. Sand in stages: Shape with a coarser grit, then refine with finer grits until edges feather smoothly into surrounding material.
3. Address pinholes: Apply a thin glazing/spot putty to small imperfections, then re‑sand.
4. Clean the surface: Remove dust with a clean cloth or tack cloth; avoid solvents that leave residue.
5. Prime first: Use a compatible primer for the substrate (metal, plastic, or wood) to promote adhesion and reveal remaining flaws.
6. Topcoat: Apply your chosen paint per manufacturer instructions. Results can vary with product, prep, and conditions.

Two‑part fillers generally need a clean, dry, and abraded surface. Certain conditions can reduce adhesion.

• Contamination: Oil, wax, silicone, or polishing residue can block bonding. Degrease and rinse thoroughly first.
• Loose material: Flaking paint, chalky coatings, and active rust should be removed; fill over sound, solid substrate only.
• Glossy surfaces: Very smooth finishes and some plastics resist adhesion unless properly sanded and, when specified, treated with a compatible promoter.
• Wet or flexible substrates: Moisture in wood or highly flexible parts may cause poor bonding or future cracking.

Tip: Create a consistent scratch profile (often a medium‑coarse grit), dry the area thoroughly, and follow the specific product label for surface compatibility and prep.

Most automotive fillers on this page use a two‑part system (base + hardener). The goal is a uniform blend without trapped air.

1. Prep the area: Have a clean mixing board and plastic spreader ready; mix small batches you can apply within the working time.
2. Add hardener per label: Follow the package directions for proportion; avoid guessing.
3. Fold, don’t whip: Use the spreader to fold the hardener into the base until the color is even, with no streaks.
4. Apply promptly: Spread in thin layers; heavy builds can trap air or solvent.
5. Clean tools: Wipe tools before the material cures. Never return mixed product to the can.

Working time and cure vary with temperature and product; check the label for specifics and safety guidance.

Pick a filler based on the surface and the type of damage.

• Body filler: Good for shaping and leveling dents and dings on metal panels; sands to a smooth, paintable finish.
• Glazing/spot putty: Best for fine pinholes, hairline scratches, and final surface refinement before primer.
• Fiberglass reinforced filler: Short or long strand options provide added strength for edges, rust‑through areas, or larger voids.
• Resin + mat kits: Use when you need structural reinforcement on fiberglass or metal with backing.
• Wood filler/restorer: For doors, trim, and furniture; look for paintable or stainable formulas.

Consider project size (pouches vs. quarts/gallons) and have accessories like spreaders, patches, and tack cloths on hand. Always follow the product label for compatibility and prep.