Please note that this board comes fully assembled and tested with full quality control done, please continue reading to find out how to use the board and add the components that best suit your needs. What you will need: a Proffieboard V2.2 - light, sound, and motion. Other Items (Not Included): MicroSD Card (16GB) thin colored wire thicker colored wire - used where power will flow to the LEDs a 3.7v li-ion battery - most batteries will work, but make sure it can provide enough amps for whatever blade(s) you want to power. A speaker Skinny LED RGB Strip (1m 144 Leds) Software - makes the hardware actually DO stuff. (The boards come programmed, but commonly, the customer will change the config files to their liking and then reflash the board again.) (optional) an SSD1306 display. (optional) Bluetooth add-on (optional) ST-Link V2 - Let's you run a debugger on the program running on the Proffieboard. (optional) IR receiver Please note that all troubleshooting and support will be at the following forums The Rebel Armory and the FX-Sabers online forum ProffieBoard Pinout v2.2 BATT+ - 2.6 to 4.5-volt input, drives everything except the LEDs BATT- - negative pad for LEDs, needs to be at the same level as GND when both are connected. Note that there are two of them, which can be useful when driving many powerful LEDs. GND - ground for electronics except for LEDs. Note that the two GND pads are interchangeable and connected through the board. Button 1/2/3 - Hook up to closing buttons, or potentially touch buttons. Data 1 / ID - Normally used to measure the blade ID resistor, and if it's a neopixel blade, feed out neopixel data. For a fixed non-neopixel saber, it could be repurposed. Note that this pin has an internal 470-ohm resistor on it, so when hooked up to a neopixel blade, it does not need any resistors. Data 2-3 - additional neopixel data outputs, or free for other purposes. Data4/Dac - neopixel data output, free, or audio DAC output LED 1-6 - Hooks up to the negative side of the LED (positive side of LED hooks up directly to the battery.) These pads can handle up to 30 volts. SD Power - FET-controlled 3.3v. can be used to power down Bluetooth and display in low-power mode. SDA, SCL - these pins are used to communicate with the gyro and accelerometer chip. 5v - generated by the proffieboard, normally it's only on when sound is playing. 3.3v - generated by the proffieboard. SWDIO, SWDCLK - can be hooked up to an ST-LINK device and lets you debug programs running on the proffieboard. Technical Specifications Dimensions 17.8x33.2x4mm (+3.2mm with micro USB port and micro SD card) A note on reverse polarity protection This version of the proffieboard is the first to feature reverse polarity protection. Please note, however, that the reverse polarity protection does not really cover the LEDs. The FETs have internal bypass diodes that let power flow backward through them. For regular LEDs, this is not a problem, as power can only flow one way through a LED. Neopixels might not be so lucky though, so it may still be possible to fry your pixels by hooking up the battery backward. But the Proffieboard itself should be fine. Wire gauges Most pads on the proffieboard will not need to carry any significant amount of power and can use 30 AWG (very thin) wire if you choose. However, Battery- will carry the combined power of all your LEDs, which is a fair amount of power. It is recommended to use thicker wires, for these wires. There are no absolute rules for what wire gauges are required, but here is a helpful chart. (See the "chassis wiring" column.) Keeping the high-power wires short helps as well. Programming Most of the time, programming the Proffieboard is as easy as hooking up the USB cable to a computer and pressing the "upload" button in the Arduino IDE. However, an interrupted upload or a crashing program can sometimes stop that from working.
