Tramontina Pro Line 36 Dinner Forks Commercial Grade Stainless Steel

I have traveled this great and baffling continent from one end to the other and eaten with forks of every conceivable disposition — silver forks, pewter forks, forks so flimsy they bent against a boiled potato like a man defeated by circumstance — and I will tell you plainly that this set of twenty-five commercial-grade implements arrived at my door in a stack so satisfying, so unapologetically functional, that I sat with them a good while just considering the nature of a civilization that can produce such a thing for such a price, which is either evidence of great progress or a sign that something has gone profoundly wrong, though I confess I cannot determine which and have stopped trying. They are heavy in the hand the way an honest thing is heavy. They do not wobble. They do not aspire to beauty and yet achieve a kind of brutal dignity that I find more reassuring than any ornamental silverware I have ever been handed by a man in a jacket. I will never use all twenty-five. This is fine. There is comfort in abundance, in knowing the forks are there, stacked and ready, indifferent to my needs and all the better for it. Five stars. America, occasionally, delivers.