3M Hi-Strength Spray Adhesive 90 Inverted Clear 17.6 Fl Oz Can

I have been using this adhesive for over a decade and I can tell you that it works hand down. All the bad reviews are from people not knowing how to prep the surface or how to use the product. The ONLY solvent that should be used to prep the surface is alcohol (100%), not Brake Kleen et al. They leave a residue behind and that residue most times will break down the adhesive not allowing it to stick. This adhesive is a contact cement and by design it will stick to itself. It will only do this when it is no longer wet but it is still sticky. Once it has lost it's sticky it's not going to work well if at all. This stuff dries fast so if needing to use it on a large area it is best to spray as you go if possible. Wax paper is your friend. If you are working with a fabric or headliner you want to spray both the backing panel and the back of the fabric. again small areas and spray more as you go. Lay wax paper on top of the backing panel once the adhesive is no longer wet but is still sticky, ten lay your fabric on top to position it. roll back the fabric and remove some of the wax paper and then roll it back down smoothing as you go. Headliner material is tricky to work with because of the foam backing. The trick is a little adhesive goes a long way. Very very very light amount as it will soak right through. This is the same really for most fabrics. DO NOT apply a lot of pressure when working with headliner material ad you will brush the foam and indents will be visible in the headliner. The spray does not come out as a liquid or a mist. It comes out of the can like a spider web or "silly string". This is how it is supposed to come out of the can to provide the most amount of coverage. The closer the nozzle is to the surface the more liquid it will be. I find that 2.5 feet to 3.0 feet away from the surface to be sprayed is ideal in most use cases. When working with metals making the surface rough is not as important as making sure there are no oils on the metal. Most metals are coated with oil to prevent them from rusting. If applying over chrome it is recommended to hit the surface with some steel wool. This is because most chromes have some kind of a surface coating on them like wax that MUST be removed. Alcohol breaks down oil so use a liberal amount, wipe the piece down 3-4 times and then let dry for at least 30 minutes before spraying. Ventilation ventilation ventilation, I cannot stress that enough. A vapor mask is not enough if used in an area that is not well ventilated The VOC's will bother your eyes. Do yourself a HUGE favor and always put down wax paper under the item you are spraying. As another review states this stuff is almost impossible to get off. Goo Gone does work but requires mechanical help in the form of scrubbing to get it off. So if you value something don't spray near it. Tape off areas with blue painters tape and plastic if needed. This adhesive is no joke when used properly. you have exactly one time to stick things together so plan ahead and get it right the first time. When working with vinyl put a super light coat on and do a "test" wrap to get some practice with the stretching. Once you know how it needs to be done then use new vinyl and spray for a final attachment. Remember this is a contact cement so both pieces need to be sprayed and both pieces need to dry so they aren't wet but they are still tacky. Depending on temperature and humidity that can be anywhere from 3 to 5 minutes. you might have another 5 minutes until the adhesive is fully dried and will no longer adhere properly. So not a long amount of "working" time. The final results are only going to be as good as the prep that is done and the time taken to adhere the 2 pieces together.