I am replacing mine after I broke it yesterday. I do walking-trail maintenance as a volunteer and use a variety of tools. I used this for trimming back weeds from the edges of the trail. This tool is light enough that I can comfortably work a trail for a few hours without fatigue, providing I frequently change from hand to hand. I did sharpen it with an angle grinder to get rid of the paint and would have sanded the handle and put on some traction tape so I could better hold it. The style slices through the weeds, which is why I bought this style rather than the one with an arch of braces. The later style would make you push the cut weeds as you cut them, while when this is sharp it commonly slices through non-woody woodland weeds. I broke mine after about 50 to 100 hours of use (an estimate, I did not keep a log). It broke at a bolt hole located just behind the cutting blade. I am replacing it because it is a very comfortable tool that works well for certain functions and is light so it is easy to carry as a sole tool when patrolling an existing trail to maintain it. Needing to replace it is OK as I consider this a wear item. It cost me about 20 to 40 cents an hour of use. When used for trail work, I often skimmed into the cinder-covered ground chasing poison-ivy vines and swept through a litter of fallen branches. I also occasionally used it to cut small woody plants and branches, for which it is poorly suited, because it was the tool I had with me and I didn't want to come back later with a different tool. It finally broke while I was trimming back some branches on a bush, probably from cumulative metal fatigue. I plan to start carrying a hand lopper for the woody stuff, but frankly, I will still use it for heavier stuff than it is designed for because I can work faster without having to switch tools back and forth and it lasted long enough to be worth the cost of replacing it. It is very handy for trimming woodland plants, including some small grape vines, poke weed, goldenrod, blackberries, poison ivy, kudzu, and small young branches and suckers on trees. The serrations protect the sharpness of the blade when it hits hard stuff like rocks or tree trunks. Long before it broke, I bent the 3/8 inch rod between the handle and the blade several times from hitting hard stuff and re-straightened it. I not only use it with the blade parallel to the ground, I also turn it vertically and swing it parallel to the ground to trim higher stuff that is leaning into the trail, and overhead to trim grape vine tendrils in trees. It does not work well in grass. The head has no weight, and thus little momentum. I use a heavier swing blade or a fire rake to break a new path through tall grass (3 or 4 feet high). It tends to get hung up in the thick, dead grass in a short distance, rather than slicing through. I also found it doesn't trim short grass growing in the trail, though it will top-out tall grass seed stalks. The short grass just seems to bend with it. Grass is much tougher than woodland plants. It is even harder to take out with a fire rake. It also does not do well on many tree branches once they are more than half an inch in diameter, though some species are brittle enough to break, often at a joint, from the impact. You have to swing it very fast to have the momentum needed for this because it is so light. Again, I mostly use it for this if I don't have another tool handy. A fire rake works better for this up to a point, then I switch to compound loppers or Swedish brush axe. However, I don't routinely carry a fire rake for trail maintenance. I mainly use this as part of trail construction or cutting a path through thick vegetation.